epilogue…walking to Finistere 90 kms more

It was a good idea at the time of planning our Camino but after the second day of this particular journey, our bodies did not agree with us. All we could do was to continue following the yellow arrows, even if it was on the “path of the three crazies”!

We had given ourselves four days to complete the journey to “the end of the earth” with the option of motorized transport if things got too tough for us.

Very early on day one, saw us exit an almost deserted Santiago and quickly disappear into the countryside. Small villages, country lanes, forest paths soothed our “touristy” nerves. The busi-ness of the commercial side of “pilgrimage” quickly overtakes the spiritual, and the religious interpretations are many and varied. So escaping into the woods, to enjoy and relish the slow, foot-paced life to which we had become accustomed was another blessing.

We met a few others just as crazy as we were, determined to make the journey to the Atlantic to gaze at the vastness of the ocean and to feel our smallness in the face of its grandeur. In a way a fitting gesture following the long pilgrimage tradition.

The way, once again was not easy… challenging terrain, steep climbs and near deserted towns with no facilities for long stretches…

Somehow, the walking, the happy pilgrims traveling both ways and the enchanting landscape willed us on.

Day two though, was a different story… despite shortening the distance to be walked, and choosing carefully the “prettiest” section; legs, lungs, back, hips and the rest made the going tough.

We found joy at the end of the day in the humble cup of tea!

Amazing scenery like this kept reminding us that beauty is ever present !

My fascination for the cruciforio kept me on the lookout for them in the most unexpected places.

Exhausted, yes, but also at the top and it is now downhill….

horreros also kept me busy, they were everywhere !

and a “welcome” old friend, last seen two years ago, made its appearance…

Day three, the coldest we had experienced so far

The road seemingly endless

the beers getting bigger

the food more exotic

the greens deeper and more varied

the houses more colourful

Day four, the final leg
excitement and determination encouraged by fairytale surroundings..

rewarded by a spectacular array of boats in the Finistere marina

the final stretch, quite steep both up and down made easier when shared with another delightful couple, Peter and Maria from Slovakia.

Zero marker, reached…

met up with three ladies we had seen on the road before and reflected on our experiences

pretty houses everywhere…

the walking finally over, time for recuperation…

Muxia, the other zero kilometer marker would be reached by bus…

I felt a little disappointed, but we both knew it was time for body, mind and soul to start on the journey home. I feel the absence of hugging family and friends keenly. I have felt them ever present on this Camino and grateful for their support and encouragement now, I want them close.

Final Days

It really hit me today and yesterday. We were not walking! Our usual pattern was broken and our camino was something to look back at, rather than forward to… We were in buses over the last two days and train back to Madrid tomorrow. All great things must come to an end, but it is strange to have all our planning coming to its conclusion.

A few people asked if I was feeling mixed emotions last week and I sort of agreed, but I was still busy planning the final week to Finisterra. There was plenty still to do. Each night we slept knowing there was a big day coming. Every night there were questions to be answered of a practical nature. When do we wake up? Was our bag packed and ready? Our backpacks? Water, poles, phones charged and ready? Did we leave anything behind? Would we have somewhere to rest after eight to ten kilometers? Will it rain and do we carry our rain jackets and pants? Is breakfast provided at our accommodation and at what time? What direction do we go out of town? Will it be flat or hilly, humid, hot? When roughly will we arrive? Did our accommodation reply to our last email? Do we have a printout of the agreement, map and emails confirming price, breakfast and bathroom? With this going through our tired minds, there was too much to consider stopping and reflecting that it was near the end. It intruded while walking but it was somewhere in the future (even three days ago).

But now, we have stopped walking (though still doing over ten thousand steps, I notice). There is suddenly time waiting for the bus, in the bus, and in those times a change dawns upon us… all our daily questions no longer need to be asked. We will not be back in this world for a while. We have finished. Wow! Finished! For me, my head says yes, but my body is still expecting to walk tomorrow. I am tired and my legs on each of the last.two nights say “thankyou” as they recover from little niggles which constantly demanded attention. However, there is a sense of unreality about it! Will I really be back in Melbourne next week? I will believe it when I see it, a part of me cries out.

Well, time to stop the reflection. Before ending, Wei (a fellow pilgrim, from China) asked us why we were doing the Camino… It is always a great question. There are many answers… a way of prayer and contemplation … a way of sharing really important events with another … a way to discover who one really is and act upon this … a way to simply live with the essentials of life … a retreat … a way to get in touch with some other wonderful people from all over the world. Perhaps, to get in touch with the ultimate Way and the mystery of our own way through life.

Bill

Santiago…rest day

Or should I call this post “the let down” It is a strange feeling, arriving at your destination having walked over 634 kilometersFirst of all you are overwhelmed by the number of people around you, pilgrims and non, all going about their business… then someone you met three weeks earlier calls out your name and there is that immediate recognition, not just facial but that shared knowledge of the road and the emotions that go with having walked the same up and down paths, and once again you feel the pilgrim spirit of kindness.Secondly, there are a number of jobs or obligations to be fulfilled; namely lining up and getting the Compostela, (official recognition of completion), attending Mass, doing the washing and wandering around without purpose, feeling at once both lost and exhilarated.Obtaining our certificates was quite a feat, we had tried twice the previous day only to leave because the queue was too long (probably a two or three hour wait). So we listened to some good advice and decided to line up early the next day… only to find others had done the same… This time though, it was only an hour after the doors were opened and we had the good fortune to be offered tickets to view the restored Portico of Glory in the Cathedral. All this in the company of friends with whom we had shared the road, food, wine and laughter on and off since Porto.Doing the washing was not only a necessity but a chance to sit and waitWe discovered the gem of laundromats complete with congenial furniture and a courtyard, we were almost sad when the washing was all done! Jobs and obligations covered we were again in no-man’s land… what now?

And it was a relief (maybe, that is a bit strong, as we were also worn out from having walked so far) we remembered that we were going to walk on to Finistere, the 0 km mark for the Camino and 90 kms away!

We weren’t quite finished. The next few days might help us process our Portuguese Caminho experience and help us prepare for our return journey.