First 100 kilometres done

Today is memorable for a number of different reasons. Our host and breakfast tales, the scenery, cracking the first 100 kms, trying to beat the weather on our longest walking day yet and our arrival into Nasbinals.

Breakfast was at 7.30 in the family home kitchen. Françoise had laid everything out, local pure apple juice, local butter, home made jams, local honey and real coffee. Everything had a story behind it, from who made it to how far away it was from her house. She was born in the area and knows it extensively and thoroughly. It was a repeat from the previous afternoon when she greeted us like old friends. The house, how she started the b&b, her own Camino experience. Not only did she tell us so much, she was also genuinely interested in our own story. One night stay is definitely not enough. I fell in love with the crocheted window dressing! We got the biggest hugs and the best send off so far. Blessings come in many guises and Françoise is definitely one of them.

The photos can speak for themselves as my words are too poor to fully describe the magnificence of the hills, fields, forest and skies. The Aubrac plateau is stunningly beautiful in its ruggedness, its extensive fields of daffodils and in a week or two other wild flowers. If we had not been in a hurry to beat the weather and get to our destination before dinner, I would have taken even more photos.

We knew the day was going to be long, we were going to walk 28 kilometres over a mixture of rolling terrain which became quite steep in very short distances. Plus dark clouds hovered and broke over us, twice! So quite a challenge. Amongst it was avoiding the mud, the stones and climbing over fences. We walked from 8.30am till 6pm. A very long and tiring day… but brilliant.

We thought we would never arrive in Nasbinals, when you’ve walked 43 000 steps you get that feeling that you will never reach your destination… and then, suddenly it’s there! And to top it all off, the Hotel was right on the path! Hallelujah, I thought, we have arrived. I could feel the hot shower running down my back, the crisp sheets ready to comfort our aching muscles…………. Guess what? Wrong hotel! One owner runs all three hotels, one at each end of town and one in the middle. We were sleeping at the furtherest end and our evening meal in the middle of town. We were offered a lift, but I say…”What’s one kilometre more?” Bill’s face fell in despair…. so we gladly accepted the ride. Then after a quick shower asked for a ride to the restaurant and a ride back after another delicious meal. The Camino continues to provide.

wet, wet, wet

The rain which had been expected and forecast for over a week finally came. Not with a bang but a whimper, slow, fine rain at first which slowly increased in intensity and speed.

And so the pilgrim ritual begins; find a tree or anything else that will give you a bit of support and shelter, put your poles and bag down, rummage through your bag to find your wet weather gear (the more seasoned and prepared have it to hand, novices and those like me have it at the bottom of their bag), pull it out and, with a little assistance, put it on. Some have cover-all ponchos which are more like an all-over tent that covers person and bag (rather awkward thing to handle). Me and Bill have rain pants and jacket. The jacket is not so hard to put on, but the pants require a little manouvering. Luckily there are zips on the side that allow you to put them on without taking off your boots. Once this is completed,  the bag has to be covered and placed on one’s shoulders. I rather feel like the Michelin man or a spaceman as both rainpants and jacket are rather snug fitting and some movements are rather curtailed.

After this mammoth effort, you pick up your poles, look around to see that you haven’t dropped anything and you recomence your journey. At this stage you have already gotten yourself wet and you remember to zip up your pockets otherwise water gets in there too! And so you are on your way at a considerably slower pace as now you have to find firm footholds on shifting ground, avoid puddles, clamber over rocks and tree roots and avoid the stream running down your path. The going is slow and heat builds up under your rain gear, like a walking sauna.  And I wonder why it is that noone loses weight on Camino!

The rain stops after two hours and the reverse occurs… pilgrims stop, look at the sky, consult the weather app and start to take off and pack away their wet weather gear. Some go down to t-shirt and shorts as it became quite steamy. Others take half off as they think it will rain again.

Despite the difficulties we still greet each other and enquire “how’s it going?”, we pass each other on the path, we stop at the same place for lunch and share our food. We arrive at our destination and see familiar faces. We find our lodgings and then we see some more familiar faces at the local restaurant. We are all washed clean from the day’s mud, warmed by hot showers and proud to have made it thus far. We take a special delight in the others’ achievements because we know how hard it was to get thus far.

of daffodils, tissues and the missing cookies

The day threatened rain, so before taking off this morning from a very interesting gite (Bill and I landed hobbit-like pods for sleeping), there was much talk about the weather, to take or not to take wet weather gear or umbrellas… there was also a commotion from the kitchen, which we later discovered was about some extra cookies, left on the table and missing ! We were keen to be on our way so made a quick exit and almost left our walking sticks behind. Luckily we had only taken a few steps so it was not far to retrieve them. Once on our way we enjoyed the morning calm, the birds were chirping, the swallows flying in and out of eaves feeding their chicks or building nests, gurgling brooks and wind through the trees that sounded like a peaceful ocean. What more could we ask for?

We did not ask, but received so much more from the day. Silent, sombre pine forests, vistas of green as far as the eye could see and field upon field of golden daffodils… just like Wordsworth described in his poem. We spent most of the morning marveling at the spectacle and taking photos. There were also wild pansies and violas and others I cannot name. The rain did come but it was a passing shower, almost not worth putting on rain jackets. Pilgrims passed us, then we caught them up, or they caught up with us, we shared a coffee and exchanged more lodging, sleeping and eating stories.

The day’s perplexing mystery were not the missing cookies, but who was dropping all the tissues or wet ones along the way? It seemed like one tissue at each 500 metre mark…Noone could be that careless in returning tissues to their pocket or that thoughtless to drop them in such paradise!

Nothing could be a more perfect or fitting end to fantastic day than staying at a family run accommodation with it’s own live in chef! We were greeted and after depositing our walking poles in the appropriate place, then removed our boots we were shown our room. We crashed for a while… a little laundry, un-packing, re-packing, showering dressing, catching up with emails, photos and Facebook, we emerged and joined our host Katrin in her kitchen. Aperitif, arugula salad with a honey dressing and a goat cheese pastry parcel, main was local beef with mushrooms and potato bake, then came the cheese……. and then creme brule. Pthe conversation flowed sometimes in French and sometimes in English. All that is left now is a good night’s sleep.

sounds

This morning after breakfast we had time to look around Sauges and went into the church as one does on pilgrimage, especially if the doors are open… “have to get your three wishes in” says Bill… well, the organ started playing as we looked around and said a few prayers. On exiting we saw all the other pilgrims going up and down the street doing their lunch shopping in the boulangeries. I joined in and came out with more than I had intended… the baked goods were just too tempting. The scene outside the shops was still busy with pilgrims making last minute preparations for their day”s walk.

Once out of town we come across a criss cross of paths and brooks of various sizes and sounds, fast flowing and babbling along over rocks. The paths and tree stumps were covered in moss and the cuckoo kept calling. In the towns chickens and roosters roam free and you hear a hen proudly announcing with her clucking that she has laid an egg followed by a rooster crowing in reply.

We keep walking uphill and down dale to the accompanying din, din din of cowbells. The cows happy to be out of their barns after winter, munching on grass, occasionally raising their heads to look at the crazy humans passing by.

As we walk we are also aware of voices, laughing, talking, and can’t see where they are coming from. Some are above perched on rocks, others round corners out of the wind, some in secluded picnic areas all stopping for a drink and something to eat.

The day continues with the clacking of walking poles, the swishing of trousers, the odd rock being dislodged as one trips yet again. And all the while … a “Bonjour, madame et monsiuer” or “Ça va?” or “Bon Chemin”. Already pilgrims are meeting up like old friends.

eating and drinking through the GR65

My focus today was going to be about climbing for 3 plus hours… we went up,- up, up but not many kilometres forward. At one point I checked my steps and it had not reached 10 000 yet! My body was telling me I had gone double the step count, but reality was quite different! I was walking 50 metres and stopping for a breath, taking photos at every chance. We were certainly spoiled for choice… we climbed and climbed then looked back and there were stunning views of the village, the valley, the river, the forest…all around us. We looked forward to winding paths and switchbacks, spying even more appealing scenes.

But, at the end of the day, sitting on a verandah, in front of a pub, me sipping white wine and Bill enjoying a beer. Bill suggested we title the next post, “drinking your way through France”. I thought it was funny, we have been enjoying a drink or two at the end of the day, but what do we know about drinking… very little. The idea sat with me for a while as I sipped my wine and as I reflected over the day, all I could think about was the amazing mushroom omelette we shared for lunch. The lightest, tastiest one I had ever eaten. This was from a village house, one lady cooking out of her kitchen and serving anyone who stopped. Behind the house there were a dozen chickens which I suppose provided the eggs. The lady, 50 to 60 years old was like an old aunt who told you to sit down and would then ask you what you wanted. She was genuinely pleased to see how much we appreciated her cooking. I can still taste it many hours after the fact!

Another special moment took place when we were enjoying a drink, the two men we had met the previous day, Eric and Renaud from the Ivory Coast, were also at the bar! It was so good to see them again and be reinfected by their positivity and enthusiasm. Here we met Hans from New Zealand and met up with Linda from Quebec. We shared stories about the day and fears for the coming day… how far, how high the elevation and will it rain?

The food and drink did not stop there! The third evening meal was accompanied by a description of the dish and the origin of the ingredients… starting with an apperitif, white wine with a special syrup, then soup and then veal stew with white rice, followed by cheese of course and a creme caramel. And here I am reminded by something said by another walker whom we keep seeing, Ros… she asked “Does anyone lose weight on these pilgrimages?” Of course not if we keep getting these types of offerings!

Tonight, I am a very happy pilgrim… I have had my hot shower and rubbed linament on my sore muscles. There are no blisters and the climb is becoming a distant memory. My tummy is full of many good things and I am in a comfortable bed ready for sleep. Tomorrow is another day, I will tackle it when it comes round. Good things happen sitting at a table, sharing a meal and stories… even if our French is very limited, the food, the wine and the bonhomie more than make up for it.

stones, water, trees, animals

The highlight for today was stones, stones, stones… everywhere. At each bend on the track there was another tricky challenge made even harder by the elevation of the path. Going up is difficult, but so is going down! As usual we kept meeting people, new ones and ones we had met the previous day. We marveled at a young French family, dad carrying one child on his back and mum conversing with the four year old. Then there were two friends from the Ivory Coast who seemed happy and joyful to be there, their excitement was palpable and contagious. Everyone on the track was friendly, asked after your well being and offered advice if you looked lost or in need of encouragement.

Then there was the water trickling or rushing down streams. Lucky France is in a drought, as it was muddy enough for me.

The twittering of birds accompanied us through out the day, “cinquettio” the Italian for birdsong, sounds better and gives a more exact imitation of the sound… for me. This is the sound of spring as is the cuckoo call. We also met up with chickens, dogs, goats and my favourite a snail 🐌 which made me feel less of a “slow coach”.

Night time sees us ensconced, almost between heaven and earth… high above a river and hydro electric plant and at the mountain we just descended. The food is basic, homely and typical of the area. The other pilgrims all spoke French and my tiredness made me more and more tongue-tied at dinner. Noone minded and it was a welcome change to the oafish behavior of a local in a bar having a laugh at the expense of pilgrims.

We managed what had threatened to be a very difficult day. The weather held. The bees were buzzing, the flowers blooming. We are truly blessed.

carrying hopes and dreams

This morning we rose very early, 6am and made our way up to the Cathedral for the fourth time, up a series of steep steps that connect a lower street to the next one up… about five levels and when you get to the end you’re faced with more steps into the church! There was a special pilgrim mass followed by a blessing and a send off via a set of stairs which open up under an automated grill in the middle aisle. An amazing experience shared by more than 200 people. I’m not sure if they were all walking but everyone, family groups, parish groups, couples and lone walkers were buzzing with excitement.

While sitting and only picking up every third, fourth or fifth word and unable to make sense of what was being said in French, my eyes wandered around the church and focused on the many candles lit by the faithful. I catch a few words, suffering for Christ, penitence and meditation and my mind wanders… I think of all our friends, family and those that have touched us through work and other activities. I think of the unfairness of life and suffering. I think of the joy and love we share and I want to hold all those in my heart and carry them to Santiago de Compostela. I pray for all those needing special consideration through their various illnesses and other needs… and I feel the need to carry those special intentions to Santiago!

The blessing and exit had a touch of chaos, happy chaos, as most pilgrims were eager to get away, either walking or breakfast. We opted for breakfast and then the torturous, what seemed to be the never ending, way out of town. We ended up climbing higher than yesterday’s Mont St Michel. Excellent training though, as even though most people passed us by, we felt we made good time. We were super encouraged by a couple who plan to start their Camino in four month’s time and who are making the climb out of Le Puy everyday as part of their training!

The rest of the day was relatively unexciting, except for the fact that we kept meeting up with the same people, exchanging greetings and details of our plans. The first two ladies informed us that there were no more sandwich shops… we have ended up at the same lodgings and will share a meal tonight. Then the priest who said mass and his companion who was pulling a trolley contraption with all her luggage. Both were very interested in us being Australian. Then Linda and Susan, both Canadians that we had met earlier. We caught up, then lost sight of them, then they caught up with us and so it went. We finally reached our lodgings around 4pm after having left at 9am. It took a little longer than we had planned. There was a lot of steep climbing and despite the training we struggled at times. We are now enjoying a wine in front of a fire and soon we will share a meal with other pilgrims. God bless, and we hope to make it through another day tomorrow and eventually to Santiago.

Stairs

I have always been amused by the cathedral in Bath, which has two ladders on either side of the main doors where angels are both climbing and presumably coming down step by step. Important messages from and to God. These are vital messages, not the sort that would travel “on a wing and a prayer”.

So, Pina and I have been seeing many such stairways. They have often led to basilicas, cathedrals, and special holy places on higher ground. We’ve seen many people traverse these steps by foot both up and down, presumably carrying with them vital messages in both directions.

Today, we briefly joined these travellers as we climbed the stairs to the Roche St Michel D’Aiguilhe, itself an ancient pilgrim site built by Bishop Gothescalk, bishop of Le Puy, in 962 after returning from pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

We climbed the many stairs to reach the cathedral to stamp our credentials, pray, meet fellow pilgrims, and even listen to music. It is from here that we will be sent as pilgrims tomorrow morning to reach Sandiago de Compostela just as Bishop Gothescalk, the first pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela, had all those year’s ago. We have hopes and dreams and vital messages we carry both up and down our path ahead.

The Camino provides.

Months ago I replied to a Facebook post, I was happy that someone else would be starting about the same time, stopping at the same towns, perhaps lodging in the same place. We corresponded, exchanged names and how to recognize each other and made a tentative arrangement to meet at the pilgrims’ welcome held in a cafè near the Cathedral.

Today we arrived in Le Puy en Velay, on the 12.30 train, took the obligatory selfie in front of the sign and made our way towards our accommodation. We were very early, check in time was at four, so we took our time over an opulent lunch. Still too early, we decide to explore and head up the numerous steps towards the Cathedral…. Once there, and after catching what was left of my breath, it was time to take in the sights. First the panorama, then the inside of the Cathedral. While I was busy taking photos, Bill spied the gift shop and place to get our credentials stamped and dated… All set to go we venture back into the main part of the church. It was buzzing, tour groups and pilgrims, chatting, praying, lighting candles, singing. There was a real sense of bonhomie. I continued wandering round the church, head back, eyes up, searching for that something that I wanted to snap… and in that very moment, as I am gazing upwards, phone outstretched trying to capture the light, the angle, the colour, I hear, in the same halting French I am trying to speak “tu es pelerin”, “are you a pilgrim”. My eyes searched for the source of the question and tried to reply in French… oui, then followed another question, something about getting a stamp… this I knew… across the altar and left down the aisle… but how does one say that in French ? So I asked what language she spoke, hoping Italian or English. Well, it was English and I won’t keep you guessing any longer, it was the person I had contacted online, sans her teal back pack, but sporting some teal-ish jacket. I had simply pointed her in the right direction… it is the Camino providing.

The welcome to pilgrims in the cafè near the Cathedral held another surprise gift. It is a gathering organized by volunteer friends of the Camino, held so that pilgrims can meet, share a story or two and generally feel encouraged by the company. The hosts served wine and water and introduced people to each other based on the language one spoke. I met a young French couple and Bill an older American couple. I have never spoken so much. They were both amazed by my provinence… Australia is such a long way away! Even more impressed that I had visited France and Europe a number of times… and they were both very interested about Australia. It turned out that she is also a teacher and shared similar concerns about education…

Tomorrow we hope to climb the two hills with significant churches or monuments or both and explore the town. A Bach concert awaits us tomorrow afternoon, and Monday… we walk!

Looking for a path

Over the past week in Aosta, while we were getting in some much needed practice for our walk, we came across many Via Frangigena signs and managed to walk a few kilometres along this well known path that starts in Canterbury and goes all the way to Rome and beyond. Some pilgrims go as far as Jerusalem! We were happy to enjoy the Valle d’Aosta and keep this particular pilgrimage for another occasion!

This week we were glad and somewhat surprised by finding signs of the Camino along the streets of Lyon and on some church doors. Our excitement is increasing as we get closer to Le Puy en Velay and the start of this our third Camino towards Santiago de Compostela.

PS. If you would like to financially support people who know better than us what it is like to have little or no security, we have made it easier with a donation page:  https://fundraise.jesuitmission.org.au/fundraisers/pinaandbilldunne